Mountain Trekking Mama

Hey everybody!  I’m sorry for the long delay in updating my blog, but after my trip to Nepal I headed to China where my blog, like Facebook, YouTube, & Twitter, was blocked!  What’s up, China?  LAME!

OK enough about that, let’s talk about Nepal, which was absolutely stunning.  I started my journey in Kathmandu and was surprised to discover that it’s boiling hot in mid-April.  I’ll take the heat over the cold any day though so it was no biggie. 

I started my journey with a visit to the Pashupati Temple, which like Varanasi in India, is where many Hindus are cremated after their passing.  Varanasi was absolutely packed when I was there, but it was relatively quiet the day I visited the ghats in Nepal. 

Notice the body off to the left in the picture below.  It is being prepared for cremation. 

After the temple we took a sightseeing tour around Bhaktapur, which I absolutely adored.  The streets are very narrow and there are charming art galleries and unique shops on every corner.  Rob and I are returning to Nepal in a few weeks and I’m definitely going to recommend that we stay here.  It’s about 45 minutes outside the heart of Kathmandu and I couldn’t get enough of it. 

It’s Ganesh, my fave!   

Are the lambs still screaming, Clarice? 

We visited a school where traditional thanka paintings are made.  The attention to detail is absolutely unbelievable.  The gallery actually offered me a magnifying glass to examine some of the pieces so I could fully appreciate the meticulous attention to detail.  I have zero artistic ability.  In fact, the only adjective my elementary school art teacher would use to describe my ”masterpieces” was unique.  I think that was her polite way of saying, you suck!   

Here are some more scenes around Bhaktapur. 

The delicious dumplings below are called momos and they are absolutely scrumptious.  They are filled with an ingredient of your choice, but I have to recommend the buff momo.  Rena, my guide for the day, introduced me to the buff momo and I adored it.  Any guess as to what is inside a buff momo?  If you guessed buffalo, you are correct!  If you have the chance, you must give it a try.  As we say down south, it’s finger lickin’ good y’all. 

Bhaktapur is famous for it’s pottery and in certain parts of the village one can find hundreds of beautiful pieces laying out in the sun to dry.  I’ve tried making pottery a few times on this journey and let’s just say that my pieces were uniquely heinous! 

The next day we visited Swayambhunath, an ancient religious complex atop a hill.  The stupas are decorated with Buddha’s eyes and a design resembling a nose that is the Nepalese symbol for unity.  In addition to the stupas, thousands of prayer flags are draped from the canopy of trees above.  It’s an inspiring sight to behold. 

Our next stop was to Durbar Square to take in the sights, and if we were lucky, catch a glimpse of the Kumari.  A Kumari is a pre-pubescent, Newari girl who is believed to be the incarnation of the goddess Taleju.  The most famous of the Kumari is the Royal Kumari who lives in a palace in the center of the city known as the Kumari Ghar.  As Rena explained it to me, Kumaris must be born with no scars on their body and must respond favorably to a number of rigorous tests.  It is said to be good luck if one sees the Royal Kumari while visiting the palace.  Evidently she appears in the window for a few seconds so if you are lucky, you’ll see her.  So, do you think I saw the Kumari?   Well, you’ll just have to wait and see…

OK, folks, here we are inside the gates of the palace where the Royal Kumari lives.  If I’m lucky I’ll see her appear in one of these windows. 

So, what do you think?  Did I see the Kumari? 

Insert the music from Jeopardy….

Last chance to place your bets.  Yes, Tiff is lucky or no, Tiff gets the shaft like she did from the tigers in India. 

And the answer is…

Yes, I saw the Kumari.  To be fair, Rena started asking around once we got inside the palace gates and got the 411 that the Kumari was supposedly going to appear around 10:00 AM.  It was currently around 9:40 AM so we decided that we were going to wait it out and see the Kumari.  About 3 minutes later, the Kumari appeared in the window for about 30 seconds.  We were told that she’d be appearing in another window 15 minutes later so I wasn’t really paying attention to the other windows, but then a local man gave me the head nod and I caught a glimpse of her.  I’m not sure if that’s cheating or not, but I think I’ll take it as a win.  I can use all the good luck I can get, folks! 

We are not allowed to take pictures of the Kumari, but she looked to be about 6 or 7 years old and didn’t seem terribly impressed with us.  She literally looked at us with a blank stare for maybe 5 seconds, gazed around the rest of the courtyard for approximately 20 seconds, and then she was gone.  Holla!  I saw the Kumari.  Let’s keep the good luck flowing!!!!

After my triumphant win with the Kumari, I headed to the airport to catch my flight to Pokhara where I would start my Himalayan trek.  Bring it on!!!  Apparently my lucky streak didn’t extend to my flight since it was 2 hours late, but since it was only a 15 minute flight it didn’t really matter. 

First thing in the morning I took off for my trek.  In total there were 11 of us going on the trek, but I was the only tourist on the trek.  Our group consisted of me, 1 tour leader, 1 assistant guide, 1 chef, 3 kitchen staff and 4 porters.  OMG, all of this for me?!?!  I was stunned that so many people were required for a 3 day, 2 night trek.  My trip was called the Royal Trek and they weren’t kidding.  Obviously I’m a big deal, folks.  I expect you all to remember that when I return to the US and treat me accordingly. 

So let’s roll out the red carpet and get this coronation ceremony started.  It’s time for the Queen to do her Royal Trek. 

Here’s a pic of me and my assistant guide, Chandra. 

And here’s some of the crew taking a break from our first steep incline.  Santosh, my tour leader, is on the left.  He grew up in the mountains of Nepal and has been trekking since about the time he could walk.  Both he and Chandra were very careful to make sure this city slicker was hydrating (Sandy, this should make you happy) and taking rests along the way. 

Woo Hoo!  We’re all smiles and super pumped for our trek!!!

OK, relaxation time is over.  It’s time to hit the road.  Wait until you see the loads these guys are taking.  It’s insane!  I seriously don’t know how they did it. 

I tried to lift this and couldn’t even get it off the ground.  I cannot believe he is climbing a mountain with this on his head.  I am so impressed! 

Everyone here carries huge loads up the mountains.  I am such a wuss! 

These women are so beautiful!  They giggled like little school girls when I showed them the shots.   

Yep, it’s time for another break.  BJ, our chef who made the most gourmet and delicious meals, is to the far right of this shot.  I decimated everything he made for us and I’m talking several courses, folks.  It was fabulous! 

Ah, chilling at our campsite.  The bathroom is behind me and to the left. 

Let’s take a closer look. 

This is so nice.  I’ve seen some super skank bathrooms over the past few months.  Who would have thought that I’d have a such nice bathroom while camping?  Sweet!!!

After we did our business, we’d scoop some dirt into the hole with a little shovel that was sitting in a mound of dirt.   

A short walk up the hill and we were at a monastery.  Welcome to Nepal, folks.  In my dreams I pictured monasteries up in the mountains and now I’m living it.  Amazing! 

Let’s take in a Nepalese sunset, shall we?  Beautiful! 

That night it was very windy and the sky was filled with lightening.  We were laying on the ground outside our tents watching the lightening flicker amongst the stars.  It was lovely.  During this trip I have done a lot of star gazing and I realize just how much I love it.  Our hope was that the wind would blow some of the haze out of the sky so that we’d have a clear view of the mountains in the morning.  The visibility on our first day wasn’t great due to the thick haze in the air, but I was hopeful that we’d get to see the mountains during our trek. 

As luck would have it the wind worked it’s magic and we had a stunning view of the Annapurna range in the morning.  Check it out.  It’s magnificent!  I think my luck has returned, folks. 

While we were breaking for lunch, some young boys joined us to practice their English and learn more about the girl who was visiting from America.  They were so adorable and thrilled to have their pictures taken. 

We’ve now reached our second campsite.  The owners of the property have several children including this adorable, young girl who couldn’t get enough of us.  Here’s a pic of her in my shades.  You should have seen her with my Ipod.  It was precious! 

Here are some other members of the family. 

And here’s the crew hanging out after another great day of trekking.  Today was NYE in the Nepali calendar.  At the stroke of midnight we’ll ring in 2067.  Everyone was in a celebratory mood and full of cheer as you will see from these pics.  The crew didn’t speak any English and I don’t speak Nepali so we entertained ourselves by performing silly tricks, building human pyramids, and busting out our signature moves, which of course had to be performed by every member of the crew.  My trick was my one-handed cartwheel.  Oh yeah!!!  The boys also taught me a famous Nepali folks song, which is pretty catchy and fun.  Are you ready? 

Resham Firiri, Resham Firiri, You are a donkey, I am a monkey, Resham Firiri. 

We danced and sang our little heads off all night long.  It was so much fun!!!!

Of course everyone had to take turns wearing my hat and shades for a shot.  Awesome! 

As you can see, a good time was had by all.  We were laughing our heads off for a good part of the evening.  I absolutely adored every single member of our crew.  I cannot say enough positive things about this trek.  Everything about it was fantastic!  I adore Nepal and cannot wait to return with Rob.   

We woke up early to catch the sunrise.  Happy 2067! 

This part of the trek made me feel like I was in the Shire from The Lord of the Rings.  It was so lush and gorgeous and I went ape with my camera! 

Sadly, our trek has come to an end.  Here’s a final shot of the crew in the bus before we say goodbye.  Thank you all for such an amazing 3 days.  I will never forget my first Himalayan trek.  I say first because I am definitely coming back! 

Aw, BJ even made us a farewell cake.  Of course, it was delicious!  Yummy!!!!  I love homemade cake. 

We returned to Pokhara where I treated myself to an extra long shower.  After 3 days of trekking in the mountains I was in desperate need of bathing.  I was also pumped to hop online and discover that my friends from Mamallapuram had surprised me and were in Kathmandu and ready to hang!  Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I am so fired up.  I think the good luck of the Kumari is for real.  Everything about my trip to Nepal has been so amazing and it seems to just keep getting better. 

After Pokhara we visited a small town named Bandipur for one evening and then rolled into Chitwan National Park.  We started our adventure in Chitwan with an elephant safari and came across this rhino in the woods.  This picture is really bad, but you can still kind of tell that it’s a rhino. 

The next day it was time to hang with some elephants so you know I was beyond pumped up.  Our elephant’s name was Shanti, which means peaceful in Nepali.  Perfect.  If I’m going to ride an elephant bareback I want her to be peaceful.  I’m not sure if I would have been as psyched if her name was Lunatic, Psychopath or Maniac.     

It’s not that easy to get up there…

but I finally got my butt up there and I am fired up!!!

Let’s make that crazy fired up!!!!

OK, now it was Karthik’s turn to give it a go.  Ever the good sport, Karthik joined me for elephant mania while the other boys enjoyed a jeep safari.  Originally Karthik wasn’t going to get on Shanti.  Of course you know I wasn’t having it and pretty much forced him to give it a go. 

Unlike me, Karthik leapt up on top of Shanti with no problems.  I asked him if he had done this before, but it was his first time.  I guess some people are just naturals.  Yay!!!  See, Karthik, isn’t this fun?!?!  Aren’t you super pumped you did it?  It’s the best thing ever, right?  Yes, I know, I’m a psycho! 

Now it was time to take Shanti for a ride down to the river for a bath.  OMG, I’m fired up!  Karthik and this other lady from England who was with us must have picked up on my subtle hints (fist pumping and repeated shouting of woo hoo) because they let me ride Shanti down to the river.  Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Giddy up, Shanti, it’s bath time.

I think it goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway, I love elephants!  Thanks, Karthik, for humoring me and being such a good sport while I foamed at the mouth and carried on like a freak.  I just can’t help myself.  They are so darn cute and sweet.  I have to gush whenever I am in their presence. 

After elephant mania Karthik took off to meet up with the boys who I’d see the following day back in Kathmandu. 

It was time now for a cultural dance from some of the locals.

 

Of course you know we had to get in on the action as well. 

Guess what song they busted out at the end? 

Yep, you guessed it…you are a monkey, I am a donkey, Resham Firiri.  You know I was singing the words and busting a serious move, which cracked up the performers. 

This picture pretty much sums up all of the joy and enthusiasm I have felt the entire time I’ve been in Nepal.  What a stunning country!  Rob, I cannot wait for our trip.  Drew, Maggie, Abigail, Wally, Sarah and Tyler, I think we may need to consider Nepal for one of our next reunions.  It’s that good. 

Upon returning to Nepal I met up with my peeps from Mamallapuram.  I am so pissed that I didn’t take any pictures.  I guess I must have been too preoccupied with getting my butt kicked in our many games of rummy.  When Kate and I were studying abroad in England, we were crazy about our games of gin rummy.  We’d play for hours on end during train rides & airport layovers.  The boys play with different rules so I had to learn how to play their version of the game and I wasn’t doing that well.  I did manage to pull out 2 wins out of about 30 or so hands.  Yahoo! 

Boys, it was so wonderful to see you all again.  I was absolutely thrilled that you came to play with me in Nepal and I cannot wait until we see each other again.  Thanks, guys, for making my trip to Nepal even more special.  Safe travels back to Mamallapuram and I’ll see you soon, I hope! 

Well, folks, it’s time to say goodbye to Nepal.   Cheers to a fabulous trip!

Here’s a pic of Santosh and I at our farewell dinner.  Santosh, thanks for taking such great care of me on this trip.  I loved every minute of it and I look forward to seeing you again when I’m back in Nepal with Rob.

Next stop is China and I cannot wait because my friend, Kara, is meeting me in Beijing.  Yippie, yahoo, yeehaw!!!!  Kara, safe travels to Beijing.  I can’t wait to see you!!!  We are going to have a ball. 

Huge hugs from Nepal and I’ll see you all soon.